3

3D puff
Raised embroidery made by stitching satin over a layer of foam, then tearing away the excess. It needs its own density and capped ends. See 3D puff digitizing. Read more about 3d puff →

4

40 weight thread
The standard embroidery thread thickness, suitable for almost every design. Most files are digitized for 40 weight unless noted.

6

60 weight thread
A finer thread used for small lettering and fine detail. Madeira says 60 weight allows block letters around 3 mm tall, against about 6 to 7 mm for 40 weight. Read more about 60 weight thread →

A

Appliqué
Fabric shapes stitched onto a garment and edged with stitching, which covers large areas with fewer stitches. See the appliqué digitizing service. Read more about appliqué →
ART
A Bernina embroidery format.
Auto-digitizing
Software that converts an image into stitches automatically, guessing at stitch types, angles and sequence. It can work for bold, simple shapes but often needs manual clean-up for small text, gradients and difficult fabrics. See embroidery digitizing software. Read more about auto-digitizing →

B

Bean stitch
A running stitch sewn forward, back and forward again over the same path, so each stitch is laid three times. It gives a bolder line than a single run and is common for outlines.
Birdnesting
A tangle of thread under the fabric, usually from incorrect threading, very low top tension or the thread coming out of the take-up path. Read more about birdnesting →
Bobbin
The small spool under the needle plate that supplies the lower thread. Top thread and bobbin thread lock together inside the fabric on every stitch.
Bobbin thread
The lower thread, usually a lighter white or black thread, that locks the top thread on the back of the design.

C

Cap embroidery
Embroidery on the front, side or back of a cap, digitized for the curve and the center seam. See cap digitizing. Read more about cap embroidery →
Cap frame
A curved frame that holds a cap front for embroidery. Designs for caps are sequenced from the center outward. See the cap embroidery guide. Read more about cap frame →
Center walk underlay
A running stitch down the middle of a satin column and back, used under thin columns and small lettering. Read more about center walk underlay →
Chain stitch
A stitch that forms a line of interlocking loops, sewn by chenille machines and used for outlines and decorative lettering. Read more about chain stitch →
Chenille
A looped, towel-like embroidery made on chenille machines, with a moss (loop) stitch and a chain stitch, typical of varsity letters. See chenille digitizing. Read more about chenille →
Color change
A command in the file that stops the machine or switches it to the next needle, so the next part of the design sews in another thread.
Color stop
A stop in the stitch file where the machine changes thread. Formats such as DST record the stop but not the actual thread color. Read more about color stop →
Coloreel
A system that colors a single base thread instantly during embroidery, so one needle can sew many colors and gradients. See Coloreel digitizing. Read more about coloreel →
Contour fill
A fill whose rows follow the outline of the shape instead of running in straight lines, often used for a sense of depth or movement.
Conversion
Saving a design from one machine format to another, such as DST to PES. It keeps the stitches but cannot add information the original lacks, such as thread colors. See DST to PES conversion.
Cover stitch
The final border that covers the raw edge of an appliqué, usually a satin or E-stitch. Read more about cover stitch →
Cut-away stabilizer
A backing that stays on the garment and is trimmed around the design. Recommended for knits and stretchy fabrics such as polos and T-shirts.

D

Density
How closely the rows of a satin or fill are spaced. Too dense and the design turns stiff, puckers or breaks thread; too open and the fabric shows through. See stitch density. Read more about density →
Digitizer
The person who builds an embroidery file in digitizing software. A good digitizer plans the file around the fabric, the size and the machine it will sew on.
Digitizing
Turning artwork into an embroidery file by deciding every stitch: its type, direction, density, underlay and the order the design sews in. The result is a set of machine instructions, not a picture. Read more about digitizing →
Digitizing service
A studio that builds embroidery files to order. Compare it with doing the work yourself in digitizing software vs service. Read more about digitizing service →
Digitizing software
Programs used to build and edit embroidery files, from free tools to professional suites. See embroidery digitizing software compared. Read more about digitizing software →
DSB
A Barudan stitch format that uses a DST-style header with its own stitch encoding. See DSB files. Read more about dsb →
DST
The Tajima stitch format, read by most commercial embroidery machines. It stores stitches, jumps, trims and color stops but not thread colors. See what a DST file is. Read more about dst →

E

E-stitch
A single-line stitch that looks like a row of the letter E, sewn along an edge. It is often used as a light cover stitch on appliqué.
Edge run underlay
A running stitch sewn just inside both edges of a column or shape, giving the top stitches a crisp edge. Also called contour underlay. Read more about edge run underlay →
EMB
The Wilcom working file: the editable master with objects and settings, not a format machines sew directly. See EMB files. Read more about emb →
Embroidery font
A lettering set already digitized as stitches, as opposed to a computer font that has to be converted and adjusted before it sews well.
Embroidery machine
A machine that moves the fabric under the needle on an X and Y frame to sew a stitch file. Home machines usually have one needle; commercial machines have several.
EXP
A stitch format used by Melco and also by Bernina. Melco machines also read DST.

F

File repair
Fixing a design that sews badly, such as one with gaps, puckering or excessive trims, by editing or rebuilding the file. See fix an embroidery file. Read more about file repair →
Fill pattern
The arrangement of needle points in a fill, which decides whether it looks plain, textured or decorative. Most programs offer a range of offsets and motifs. Read more about fill pattern →
Fill stitch
Rows of running stitches laid side by side to cover a large area. The most common fill is tatami. See when a shape is satin and when it is fill. Read more about fill stitch →
Fill underlay
A light, widely spaced fill sewn under a top fill, usually at an angle to it, so the two layers hold the fabric flat. Read more about fill underlay →
Flagging
Fabric bouncing up and down with the needle because it is hooped too loosely or the presser foot is set too high. It causes skipped stitches and poor registration.
Flat-rate pricing
Charging one price per design based on its complexity rather than per 1,000 stitches. PlixaLabs prices every design this way, from $10. See digitizing prices. Read more about flat-rate pricing →
Frame
The part of the machine that moves the hoop, or a holder for items that cannot be hooped normally, such as caps and bags.
Free-standing lace
Lace stitched onto wash-away stabilizer with no fabric, so it holds together as lace once the stabilizer is rinsed away.
Full back
A large design across the back of a jacket or hoodie. It needs careful density and underlay to stay flexible. See jacket back digitizing. Read more about full back →

G

German underlay
Edge run and zigzag underlay combined under the same satin column, for crisp edges plus loft. Read more about german underlay →
Gradient fill
A fill whose density changes across the shape, so one color fades into the fabric or into another color.

H

Heat-seal backing
An adhesive backing on a patch that lets it be ironed or heat-pressed onto a garment. Read more about heat-seal backing →
Hoop
The frame that holds fabric and stabilizer taut while the design sews. Use the smallest hoop that fits the design, and hoop firmly without stretching the fabric.
Hoop burn
Marks or crushed fibers left on the fabric by the hoop, most visible on velvet, performance fabrics and pile.
Hooping
Clamping fabric and stabilizer into the hoop. Loose or uneven hooping causes puckering, gaps and outlines that do not line up.
HUS
An older Husqvarna Viking stitch format that stores compressed stitch data. See HUS files. Read more about hus →

I

In-the-hoop
A project completed entirely in the embroidery hoop, such as a small bag, ornament or key fob, often abbreviated ITH.

J

JEF
The Janome embroidery format, which stores stitches and thread colors for Janome machines. See JEF files. Read more about jef →
Jump stitch
A movement of the frame without the needle sewing, leaving a loose thread between two points. Long jumps are usually trimmed. Read more about jump stitch →

K

Knockdown stitch
A light, open layer of stitches sewn first on towels, fleece and other pile fabrics to flatten the nap, so the design sits on a flat surface. Different programs use different names for it. Read more about knockdown stitch →

L

Left chest
The most common logo placement on shirts and jackets, over the wearer's left chest. See left chest logo digitizing. Read more about left chest →
Lettering
Text in an embroidery design. Lettering is usually built from satin columns and needs care at small sizes so letters stay open and readable. Read more about lettering →
Lock stitch
A few small stitches at the end of an object, before a trim or jump, that stop the thread from unraveling. Also called a tie-off.
Logo digitizing
Turning a company or team logo into an embroidery file, usually for a left chest, cap or sleeve. See logo digitizing. Read more about logo digitizing →

M

Manual digitizing
Building a design object by object by hand in digitizing software, with the digitizer choosing each setting instead of accepting automatic ones.
Merrowed edge
The raised overlocked border wrapped around the edge of many patches. Read more about merrowed edge →
Metallic thread
Thread with a metallic foil finish. It is less forgiving than polyester or rayon and usually runs better at lower speed with a suitable needle.
Monogram
Initials, often in a decorative layout, sewn as a personal mark on garments, towels and gifts.
Multi-needle machine
A machine with several needles, each threaded with a different color, so it changes color without rethreading.

N

Nap
The raised surface fibers or loops of fabrics such as towels, fleece and velvet, which can swallow stitches unless flattened or topped. Read more about nap →
Needle
Embroidery needles have a larger eye and a special groove to carry embroidery thread. Needle choice depends on thread weight and fabric.
Needle deflection
The needle bending as it hits dense stitching or thick material, which can break needles and throw stitches off position.
Needle size
Written as a pair such as 75/11. The metric number is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (75 is 0.75 mm); 75/11 is a common embroidery size, with smaller sizes such as 65/9 or 70/10 used for 60 weight thread.

O

Object
One shape in a digitizing program, such as a satin column, a fill area or a line of text, with its own stitch type and settings. Objects exist only in working files; a stitch file stores the stitches they produced.
Overlap
The small amount one object extends under its neighbor so no gap opens between them when the fabric moves during sewing. Read more about overlap →

P

Patch
A stand-alone embroidered badge, usually on twill with a border, sewn or ironed onto a garment later. See patch digitizing. Read more about patch →
PEC
The Brother stitch data block, with colors, stitches and a small preview image. It sits inside PES files and can also exist on its own. Read more about pec →
Per-stitch pricing
Charging for digitizing by stitch count, usually per 1,000 stitches, so the final price is only known once the file is built. Read more about per-stitch pricing →
PES
The Brother format, also used by Baby Lock machines. A PES file contains an embedded PEC block with the stitches, plus design information. See PES files. Read more about pes →
Photo embroidery
Recreating a photograph in thread with layered fills and blended colors. It is one of the most demanding types of digitizing.
Placement line
In appliqué, a running stitch that shows where to lay the fabric piece. Read more about placement line →
Polyester thread
Strong, colorfast embroidery thread that stands up to commercial laundering and chlorine bleach, which makes it common on uniforms and workwear.
Presser foot
The part that holds the fabric down around the needle as it rises, so the fabric does not lift with the thread. Its height is adjusted for thick items.
Puckering
Fabric gathering around the stitching. Common causes are density, missing underlay, the wrong stabilizer and loose hooping. See why embroidery puckers.
Pull compensation
Extra width a digitizer adds to shapes because stitches pull the fabric inward and make shapes sew narrower than drawn. Stretchy fabrics need more. See pull compensation. Read more about pull compensation →
Push and pull
The two ways stitches distort fabric: they pull it in along the stitch direction and push it out at the ends of the stitches. Digitizers compensate for both. Read more about push and pull →
PXF
A Pulse file that keeps design outlines as well as stitches, so it can be scaled and re-stitched in Pulse software. See PXF files. Read more about pxf →

R

Raster image
A picture made of pixels, such as JPG or PNG. It can be digitized from, but cannot be converted straight into stitches; see JPG to vector conversion and PNG or JPG to DST. Read more about raster image →
Rayon thread
Embroidery thread with a soft, high sheen, often chosen for monograms, childrenswear and more delicate items. It is less resistant to bleach than polyester.
Registration
How accurately separate parts of a design line up when sewn, such as an outline around a fill. Poor registration shows as gaps. See outlines not lining up. Read more about registration →
Resizing
Changing the size of a design. Resizing a working file recalculates the stitches; resizing a stitch file only moves them, so large changes alter density. See design sewing the wrong size. Read more about resizing →
Run time
How long a design takes to sew, mainly set by stitch count, machine speed, trims and color changes. Estimate it with the free embroidery run time calculator.
Running stitch
A single line of stitches following a path, used for fine detail, outlines and travel between objects. Also called a run or walk stitch; sewn three times over the same path it becomes a bean stitch.

S

Satin column
A shape sewn with satin stitches between two edges, such as a letter stroke or a border. Its width limits how long each stitch becomes. Read more about satin column →
Satin stitch
Closely spaced zigzag stitches that go from one side of a narrow shape to the other, giving a smooth, shiny finish. Used for borders, columns and most lettering. See satin stitch vs fill stitch. Read more about satin stitch →
Sequencing
The order in which a design sews, object by object and color by color. Good sequencing reduces trims and color changes and keeps outlines in register. See trims and sequencing. Read more about sequencing →
Sequin embroidery
Embroidery that attaches sequins with a sequin device on the machine, with the placement of each sequin set in the file. See sequin embroidery digitizing. Read more about sequin embroidery →
SEW
An older Janome format, also associated with Elna and Kenmore machines.
Sew-out
A test sewing of a design on fabric to check it before production. Also called a stitch-out.
Sewing field
The largest area a machine or hoop can sew in one hooping. It sets the maximum design size.
Short stitch
A setting that shortens some stitches on the inside of tight curves in a satin column, so stitches do not pile up where the column turns.
Small lettering
Text small enough that thread thickness, underlay and density decide whether it stays readable. Finer thread and a smaller needle help. See small text filling in. Read more about small lettering →
Split satin
A satin column whose long stitches are broken into shorter ones, so a wide satin does not snag or sag. Some programs do this automatically above a set stitch length.
Stabilizer
Material hooped under (or on top of) the fabric to support it while it is stitched. Also called backing. The main types are cut-away, tear-away and wash-away.
Stitch angle
The direction the stitches of an object run. Changing the angle between neighboring objects helps them read as separate areas and reduces fabric pull in one direction.
Stitch count
The total number of stitches in a design. It drives run time and is the basis of per-stitch pricing. Try the free stitch count estimator.
Stitch editing
Changing individual stitches in a stitch file, such as moving, deleting or adding needle points. Useful for small repairs but limited compared with editing objects in a working file. Read more about stitch editing →
Stitch file
A machine file that holds needle positions and commands such as jumps, trims and color changes. Examples are DST, PES, JEF, EXP and VP3. See the embroidery file formats guide.
Stitch length
The distance between two needle points. Very short stitches can pile up and break thread; very long ones can snag and sag.
Stitch simulation
An on-screen or image preview of how the stitches will look, used to check a file before sewing. PlixaLabs includes a stitch simulation preview with every order.
Stitch type
The way an object is filled with thread. The three basic types are running stitch, satin stitch and fill (tatami) stitch, and most other effects are variations of them.
Stitches per minute
The speed setting of an embroidery machine, abbreviated SPM. Dense designs, metallic thread and difficult fabrics are often run slower.

T

Tack-down stitch
In appliqué, the stitches that hold the fabric piece in place before it is trimmed and covered with the finishing border. Read more about tack-down stitch →
Tackle twill
Twill fabric appliqué, often with a zigzag or satin edge, widely used for sports numbers and lettering. Read more about tackle twill →
Tatami
The standard fill stitch: rows of running stitches with the needle points offset from row to row, so the fill looks even and hides the row lines. See tatami stitch. Read more about tatami →
Tear-away stabilizer
A backing torn away from the design after sewing. Suited to stable fabrics that hold their shape, such as denim and canvas.
Tension
The balance between top thread and bobbin thread. A common check: with balanced tension a strip of bobbin thread shows down the middle of a satin column on the back; too tight top tension can pucker fabric.
Thread break
The top thread snapping during sewing. Causes range from a worn needle and tension to dense or badly built files. See embroidery thread breaking. Read more about thread break →
Thread chart
A maker's list of thread colors and their codes, used to match artwork colors to real threads. The free thread color matcher suggests matches.
Thread weight
A number for thread thickness where a higher number means a finer thread. 40 weight is the standard embroidery thread; 60 weight is finer.
Tie-in
A few small stitches at the start of an object or color that secure the thread before sewing begins. Ink/Stitch calls these tack stitches.
Topping
A thin film, usually water-soluble, laid on top of pile fabrics such as towels and fleece so stitches sit on the surface instead of sinking in. Read more about topping →
Towel embroidery
Embroidery on terry loops, which needs topping, a knockdown or heavier underlay and bolder shapes. See embroidery on towels. Read more about towel embroidery →
Travel
Stitching or a jump that moves the needle from the end of one object to the start of the next. Digitizers often hide travel runs under later stitching. Read more about travel →
Trim
A command that tells the machine to cut the thread, usually before a long jump or a color change. See where trims belong. Read more about trim →
Tubular embroidery
Sewing garments that are closed tubes, such as T-shirts and sleeves, on the free arm of a commercial machine so only one layer sits under the needle.

U

Underlay
Light stitches sewn before the visible stitches of an object, to stabilize the fabric and support the top stitching. See embroidery underlay types. Read more about underlay →

V

Vector artwork
Artwork made of paths and shapes (AI, EPS, SVG, PDF) that scales without losing quality. It is the easiest artwork to digitize from. See vector art service. Read more about vector artwork →
VP3
The stitch format used by Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff machines. See VP3 files. Read more about vp3 →

W

Wash-away stabilizer
A water-soluble stabilizer that dissolves when rinsed, used where no backing should remain, such as lace and sheer fabrics.
Working file
The editable master file a digitizing program saves, keeping objects, stitch types and settings. It can be edited and resized cleanly; a machine file exported from it cannot be turned back into objects. Read more about working file →

X

XXX
A stitch format associated with Singer and Compucon.

Z

Zigzag underlay
A low-density zigzag sewn along a satin column before the top satin, adding support and loft on wider columns. Read more about zigzag underlay →