Embroidery density by fabric
Pick the fabric, thread weight and stitch type to get starting values.
Fabric × thread weight × stitch type = sourced starting values
Starting values for
T-shirt jersey, 40 weight (standard), Fill (tatami)
Stitch spacing 0.40 mm · pull compensation 0.35 mm · needle 65/9 to 75/11
Starting values only. Every fabric, garment and machine behaves differently: sew a sample on the real fabric with the planned backing before a production run. Figures checked 19 September 2026.
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We set density, underlay and pull compensation per object for the fabric you name, hand digitized and checked by a second digitizer. Flat price per design, never per stitch.
The lookup gives stitch spacing, pull compensation, backing and topping, needle point and size, and underlay. Every figure comes from Madeira, Wilcom, Melco or Groz-Beckert guidance, and where no one publishes a number, the tool says so. It runs in your browser.
01How it works
Where the starting values come from
There is no single density for a fabric. Density depends first on the thread, then on the fabric, then on the object: a fill, a satin column or a small letter. This tool combines three kinds of published guidance, and keeps them separate so you can see which number came from where.
- Stitch spacing comes from the thread weight. Madeira's density chart gives 0.35 mm for 60 weight, 0.40 mm for 40 weight, 0.50 mm for 30 weight and 0.80 mm for 12 weight thread, with a needle size for each. Madeira calls these rough guidelines that vary with the fabric and the effect wanted.
- Pull compensation comes from the fabric. Wilcom's EmbroideryStudio help gives starting values of 0.20 mm for cotton drill, 0.35 mm for T-shirts, 0.40 mm for fleece and sweaters, and 0.2 to 0.3 mm for lettering. It notes the right value also depends on the hooping and the width of the object. Wilcom publishes no figure for the other fabrics here, so the tool shows no published starting value: test on a sample and the nearest published figure for context.
- Backing, topping and needle point come from the fabric. These follow Madeira's E-Zee backing guide and needle guide, Melco's stabilizer guide and Groz-Beckert's needle guide, as summarized on our fabric pages.
- Underlay depends on the stitch type and the fabric. Fills get a light fill underlay at 90 degrees to the top stitches; satin columns get center walk, edge run or zigzag depending on width. Pile fabrics add a knockdown layer first.
Worked example (the tool's defaults): T-shirt jersey with 40 weight (standard) thread and a fill (tatami) stitch. The tool returns a stitch spacing of 0.40 mm (written 4.0 in tenths of a millimeter), a needle size of 65/9 to 75/11 with a ballpoint, pull compensation of 0.35 mm from Wilcom's T-shirt value, a cut-away backing matched to the design, and a fill underlay at 90 degrees to the top fill. Because jersey is a knit, the density note suggests going lighter than on a woven, and the test note says to check the sample after unhooping and after a wash.
02Step by step
How to use the lookup (step by step)
- Pick the fabric. Choose the garment fabric from the list: twill, pique polo, T-shirt jersey, performance knit, fleece, terry, denim, leather or caps.
- Pick the thread weight. Choose 40 weight for standard embroidery, 60 for fine detail and small lettering, 30 or 12 for heavier thread.
- Pick the stitch type. Choose fill (tatami) for large areas or satin for columns, borders and lettering.
- Read the starting values. The card shows stitch spacing, pull compensation, backing and topping, needle point and size, and an underlay suggestion, each with its source.
- Note what has no published figure. Where no manufacturer publishes a number for that fabric, the card says so. Start from the nearest figure shown and test.
- Sew a test and adjust. Sew the design on the real fabric with the planned backing, check it after unhooping, and change one setting at a time.
03Reference
Stitch spacing and needle size by thread weight
| Thread weight | Stitch spacing | In tenths of a mm | Needle size |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40 weight (standard) | 0.40 mm | 4.0 | 65/9 to 75/11 |
| 60 weight (fine) | 0.35 mm | 3.5 | 60/8 to 65/9 |
| 30 weight (heavier) | 0.50 mm | 5.0 | 75/11 |
| 12 weight (heavy) | 0.80 mm | 8.0 | 100/16 |
Source: Madeira stitch density chart, Classic rayon (Polyneon polyester at 40 and 60 weight uses the same spacing; Madeira lists Polyneon 40 for needles from 60/8 to 75/11). Madeira's needle guide adds that the smallest recommended needle gives the neatest penetration hole, and suggests newer embroiderers start with the larger or middle size.
04Reference
Full reference table by fabric
| Fabric | Pull compensation (Wilcom) | Backing | Topping | Needle point | Density and underlay |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton twill or drill work shirts, chinos, bags Denim and twill |
0.20 mm Wilcom value for "drills, cotton" |
Heavy weight tear-away. Madeira calls twill a very stable woven that a heavy tear-away suits best. | None listed by Madeira for twill. | Sharp point (SP or RG). Madeira lists twill with the woven fabrics that call for a sharp needle. | Stable wovens hold the standard spacing for the thread well. No twill-specific underlay guidance in our sources. Use the stitch type default below. |
| Pique polo cotton and blend polo shirts Performance and stretch knits |
No published starting value: test on a sample. Wilcom gives 0.35 mm for T-shirt, the nearest knit it lists. |
Low profile, medium weight cut-away (Madeira). Melco also recommends cut-away for polos for support through repeated washes. | Water-soluble topping, which Madeira says keeps stitches from getting lost in the textured surface. | Ballpoint (BP, FFG or SES). Madeira lists golf shirts and piques for ballpoint needles. | Knits usually need lighter density than wovens so the fabric is not overloaded. Enough underlay to stabilize the knit, but not so much that the design turns stiff or puckers the fabric. |
| T-shirt jersey cotton and blend T-shirts Performance and stretch knits |
0.35 mm Wilcom value for "T-shirt" |
Cut-away, with the weight matched to the design. Madeira: match a cut-away weight that supports the design elements; heavier for large, dense designs. | None listed by Madeira for jersey. | Ballpoint (BP, FFG or SES). Madeira lists T-shirts and other knits for ballpoint needles. | Knits usually need lighter density than wovens so the fabric is not overloaded. No jersey-specific underlay guidance in our sources. Use the stitch type default below and keep it light. |
| Performance polyester knit moisture-wicking athletic shirts Performance fabric |
No published starting value: test on a sample. Wilcom gives 0.35 mm for T-shirt, the nearest knit it lists. Madeira says to pay special attention to push and pull compensation on performance wear. |
Low profile, medium weight cut-away made for performance wear, paired with a lightweight tear-away (Madeira). One layer of performance backing for designs up to 7,000 stitches, two above that. Melco adds that a lightweight woven stabilizer prevents a visible halo. | Only on textured performance pique: water-soluble topping (Madeira). | Fine ballpoint. Groz-Beckert recommends its RG or FFG point for delicate knits and warns that a needle that is too thick can burst the knit loops. | Madeira: choose lighter, less stitch-dense designs and avoid high stitch counts. Madeira: consider increasing the underlay and reducing the fill area. |
| Fleece jackets, sweatshirts, blankets Fleece |
0.40 mm Wilcom value for "fleece, jumper" |
One or two pieces of a lightweight, no-show cut-away (Madeira). | Water-soluble topping to hold down the nap (Madeira and Melco). | Ballpoint. Madeira lists fleece for ballpoint needles; Groz-Beckert recommends ball points for knits. | Enough to cover the nap, not more: firm underlay lets the top density stay moderate. Underlay that flattens the nap first. On deep pile, a first pass to flatten and a second to support; on sherpa or plush, a knockdown layer such as Wilcom's Laydown Stitch. |
| Terry towel towels, bathrobes Towels and terry |
No published starting value: test on a sample. | Soft tear-away (Madeira), which keeps the back of the towel clean. Embroidery Library prefers cut-away in most cases, for support through repeated washing. | Water-soluble topping, every time (Madeira and Melco). | Sharp point. Madeira lists terrycloth with the heavy fabrics that call for a sharp needle. | Fuller than the same fill on a polo, to hide the loops, but too much turns a soft towel stiff. A knockdown layer (Wilcom's Laydown Stitch) to flatten the loops, then firmer edge run and zigzag or fill underlay. Widen satin columns so they bridge the pile. |
| Denim jeans, jackets Denim and twill |
No published starting value: test on a sample. Wilcom gives 0.20 mm for cotton drill, the nearest woven it lists. Denim is a stable woven that draws in less than a knit. |
Tear-away: heavier for larger, denser designs, lighter for smaller, open ones (Madeira). Melco also recommends tear-away on denim. | Usually none: denim has no nap to hold down. | Sharp point (SP or RG). Madeira lists denim for sharp needles. | Standard to full: the fabric supports dense fills. Standard edge run and fill underlay; no extra nap control needed. |
| Leather or faux leather jackets, bags, patches Leather |
No published starting value: test on a sample. No Wilcom figure. Leather does not draw in the way a knit does, so compensation can usually be reduced. |
Tear-away with a clamping type hoop (Madeira), or a magnetic frame. Madeira says to limit high-density designs, which can perforate leather and vinyl. | None. | Round point, not a cutting point: Groz-Beckert recommends RG for delicate to medium-hard leather and R for very hard leather. Madeira lists leather for sharp rather than ballpoint needles. | Opened up, so there are fewer needle holes: every hole is permanent. Used sparingly (Gunold): leather is stable and needs little support. |
| Caps (structured twill) baseball caps Cap embroidery guide |
No published starting value: test on a sample. No Wilcom figure for caps. The curved front and center seam need their own compensation, set in the file. |
Heavy weight tear-away cap backing, cut in strips for cap frames. Madeira: more than one piece keeps the material closer to the needle plate and avoids needle deflection. Melco also recommends tear-away on caps. | None listed by Madeira for caps. | Sharp point (Madeira lists caps). Groz-Beckert makes a reinforced DB x K5 SAN 1 needle for sturdy materials such as caps. | No published cap figure: enough to cover without making the front rigid. Underlay that locks stitches to the curved front, sequenced from the center seam outward like the rest of the cap design. |
Lettering: Wilcom gives 0.2 to 0.3 mm pull compensation for lettering, whatever the fabric. The fabric pages linked in the table explain each recommendation in full, and the embroidery by fabric guide compares them side by side.
05Limits
Limits and caveats
- These are starting points, not settings to copy blindly. Madeira calls its density chart a rough guideline, and Wilcom says compensation varies with the fabric, the hooping and the size of the object.
- No invented numbers. Manufacturers do not publish a density or pull compensation figure for every fabric. Where they do not, the tool says so rather than guessing, and the density advice stays qualitative (lighter, standard, fuller).
- Thread fiber matters. The spacing figures are Madeira's for its Classic rayon and Polyneon threads. Other brands and specialty threads (metallic, matt, wool) have their own charts.
- Small lettering needs its own settings. Narrow satin strokes leave little room between needle holes, so check text size separately; see why small text fills in.
- The file decides most of this. Density, underlay and pull compensation live in the working file, not in a DST or PES, so they cannot be changed properly after export. See embroidery density, pull compensation and underlay.
06FAQ
Density by fabric FAQ
Start from the thread: Madeira recommends about 0.40 mm spacing for 40 weight thread. On a knit such as a T-shirt, lighter density usually works better than on a woven, and Wilcom gives 0.35 mm pull compensation for T-shirts. Test on the actual shirt.
Density is how close the stitch rows sit. Pull compensation is extra width added to each shape so it finishes at the drawn size after the stitches pull the fabric in. See pull compensation explained.
Because we only show figures a manufacturer publishes. Wilcom publishes pull compensation starting values for cotton drill, T-shirts and fleece only, so other fabrics show the nearest published figure for context and ask you to test.
Yes. Madeira and some programs write spacing in tenths of a millimeter, so 4.0 and 0.40 mm mean the same spacing. A smaller number means denser stitching.
Madeira's chart gives one spacing per thread weight. Fill spacing can be measured differently between programs, since Wilcom notes some measure between every second line, so check your software before comparing numbers.
Not properly. A DST stores stitches, not objects, so density, underlay and pull compensation are set in the working file. We build fabric-specific versions by hand; see our embroidery digitizing service.
07Sources
Sources for every figure
- Madeira: stitch density chart by thread type and needle size
- Madeira USA: E-Zee Guide to choosing backings and toppings
- Madeira USA: Professor T.H. Read, choosing the correct needle
- Wilcom EmbroideryStudio help: apply automatic pull compensation (values by fabric)
- Wilcom: stitch spacing or density
- Wilcom: understand push and pull compensation
- Wilcom: the Laydown Stitch in EmbroideryStudio
- Melco: selecting stabilizer and backing for embroidery
- Groz-Beckert: machine needles for single and multihead embroidery (as cited on our fabric pages)
- Ink/Stitch: satin column (spacing, underlay types)
- Ink/Stitch: fill stitch (fill underlay, spacing, angle)
- Embroidery Library: embroidering on terrycloth towels
- Gunold: tips for embroidering leather
Qualitative density, underlay and testing advice follows our learning pages on density, underlay and each fabric, which cite these sources. Checked 19 September 2026.
08More tools
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Minimum Text Size Checker
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DST File Viewer
Check a finished file's size, stitch count and stitch-out before you sew.
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