What is the 30-second artwork checklist?

Send these with every order
  1. Artwork file: the best version you have (see the table below).
  2. Garment and fabric: e.g. piqué polo, performance tee, fleece, structured cap, towel.
  3. Placement: left chest, cap front, sleeve, jacket back and so on.
  4. Finished size: width or height, in inches or millimeters.
  5. Colors: Pantone or thread brand codes if you have them.
  6. Machine or format: e.g. Tajima (DST), Brother (PES).
  7. Deadline and quantity.
  8. Anything special: 3D puff, appliqué, small text, a patch border.

When any of these is missing, the digitizer has to come back with questions before starting, which costs time on a rush job.

Which artwork files work best for embroidery?

Better artwork means fewer guesses. Here is how common files compare:

RatingArtworkWhy
BestVector: AI, EPS, SVG or PDF, with fonts converted to outlinesExact shapes and lettering at any size
BetterHigh-resolution PNG or JPG, at or above the finished sizeClear edges; the digitizer can trace shapes accurately
AcceptableA sharp photo of existing embroidery or print, taken flat and straight onWorks for most logos, but fine detail may need interpreting
Won’t work wellTiny web thumbnails, compressed screenshots, heavily filtered or angled photosEdges and small text are lost, so the result is guesswork

Not sure what’s inside an AI or EPS file? Open it in the free EPS and AI file viewer. To check whether an image is ready for embroidery, try the image-to-embroidery checker. If your only artwork is low quality, a clean redraw through our vector art conversion service gives you a vector for print and embroidery alike.

What size and placement should I give?

Give one dimension, the finished width or height, and say which it is. Size decides which details can be kept and how small text can go, so it has to be known before digitizing starts. The right size depends on the garment and your customer’s spec; measure the area on the actual garment when in doubt.

PlacementWhat to tell the digitizer
Left chestFinished width or height, and the garment (polo, tee, jacket)
Cap frontCap style (structured or unstructured), center seam, finished size, flat or 3D puff
Sleeve or collarFinished height, and whether it is sewn on a finished garment or a cut panel
Jacket backFinished width, the jacket fabric, and whether the back has a seam
PatchFinished patch size and shape, border type and backing

The same logo at two sizes, or on two very different garments, is often best as two files. See our cap digitizing guide for why caps in particular need their own file.

How do I specify thread colors?

The most reliable way is a thread brand and color code (for example, a Madeira or Isacord number). Pantone references work too, and the digitizer will pick the closest thread. If you only have the logo image, say which colors must match exactly. The free thread color matcher suggests the closest Madeira Polyneon and Isacord thread shades for the colors in your logo.

Remember that DST files don’t store thread colors, so if your shop runs DST, keep a color sequence sheet with the file. Our file formats guide explains why.

Which garment and fabric details change the file?

Fabric changes underlay, density and compensation, so the same logo can need different settings:

  • Piqué polos and knit tees: textured and stretchy, so they need support to stop puckering and sinking.
  • Performance and stretch fabrics: lightweight and prone to puckering.
  • Fleece and towels: deep pile that swallows small stitches.
  • Caps: curved, stiff and often seamed.
  • Heavy twill and canvas: stable, but dense designs can still turn stiff.

Our puckering and underlay guide explains what the digitizer adjusts for each.

What machine and format details should I include?

Name the machine brand and model, or the file format you need. Commercial machines usually run DST; many home machines prefer their own format, such as PES for Brother or JEF for Janome. At PlixaLabs every order includes all machine formats, so this is mostly about avoiding mix-ups in your shop.

Do I need permission to use the artwork?

Yes. Only send artwork you own or have permission to reproduce, such as your own business logo or a customer’s logo supplied for their order. Our terms of service ask you to confirm that you own or have the right to reproduce the artwork you send.

PlixaLabs

Ready to send your artwork?

Upload it with the checklist details and get your file in 4–8 hours. Your first design is free for new registered businesses (Simple or Medium, standard turnaround).

Upload your artwork →

Frequently asked questions

No, but it helps. A clear PNG or JPG works for most logos. Vector files (AI, EPS, SVG or PDF) give the digitizer exact shapes, which matters most for small text and fine detail.
Usually, yes, if the photo is sharp, taken straight on in good light and shows the whole design. Tell the digitizer the size of the existing embroidery too.
Give the finished width or height on the garment, in inches or millimeters. The digitizer keeps the proportions and confirms the other dimension.
Tell them the machine brand or the file format you need. At PlixaLabs every order includes all machine formats, but knowing the machine avoids mix-ups.
Tell the digitizer the finished size up front. Text that is too small to sew cleanly may need to be enlarged, set in a bolder font or left out, and a good digitizer will flag that before starting.